Cruising Guide to the Abacos and the Northern Bahamas

    
 

   Menu

 

 

 

 

Congratulations, you are cruising in literally the finest cruising area of the world! If you still have an old second edition of this cruising guide aboard, the charts you have there are still the finest set of charts available for Abaco, except for the new edition! If you have the patience and the time to meticulously pencil in the changes which I will describe later in this article, you will have most of the really important changes. What you won’t have are the new aerials, many of the GPS and LORAN way points too numerous to include here, the new two page chart showing exactly how to navigate the Devil’s Backbone in North Eleuthera, or the  collection of six new charts for Grand Bahama Island. In offering, this update, I don’t want to discourage anyone from buying the new edition, rather I found this a good place to introduce you to my new online magazine Monthly Updates.  Here, I will be able to publish in a very timely manner, updates to your new book almost as quickly as I have new information.  If you check this web site on a regular basis, you will be able to keep your new book up to date, even as I am preparing the next new edition.

These charts do not take the place of your standard nautical charts but supplement them, much as harbor charts do where they are available.

Mr. Wilensky has now retired from writing cruising guides, although he still does plenty of cruising.  He now spends his professional time editing the work of a number of authors.  I consider myself fortunate to have had the opportunity to learn from him!

While cruising Abaco with "Wilensky" (the book) at my constant side in the cockpit, I had the opportunity to "field test” these charts for many years before I undertook the task of writing the third edition. Julius agreed to let me update his classic work, using his charts.  The text required more than an "update"--a total rewrite is more like it, the charts were good, but needed GPS way points and in several cases the latitude and longitude lines needed to be revised. In some cases, this is just a result of the fact that the world’s map makers changed the earth’s grid, but more about that in a future issue.

Obviously, I recommend you purchase a new edition for the changes in the text, but a few deserve particular mention here!  Jack Tar Village, previously the Grand Bahama Hotel at West End is now defunct.  The marina is still open, as Old Bahama Bay Marina and you can still clear customs there. They have some very grand plans to develop the site of the old hotel. The entrance at West End has changed. They’ve closed off the old private yacht entrance, and dredged an opening between the old commercial harbor and the yacht basin.  This is a much better arrangement. My GPS way point taken in the center of the new channel is:

bullet

26° 42.238’N

bullet

78° 59.720’W

The third edition  contains much more information about Freeport and Grand Bahama.  Lucayan Marina in Bell Channel is now the Lucayan Marina Village, and has been totally rebuilt from the ground up.  Avoid the commercial harbor at Freeport, as before.  Nassau has a new bridge to Paradise Island about 200 yards west of the old one, the vertical clearance is the same as the old bridge.  Nassau also sport the new upscale marina/hotel/resort complex Atlantis.

The northern Abacos have changed very little.  Walker's Cay is more pleasant than ever, but avoid it during the big fishing tournaments! They’re channel markers are down, as a result of Hurricane Floyd, but they’ll get them back up in time.

The approach to Big Carter's Cay is much as it was described on page 198, but has less water outside Gully Cay than previously reported.  Our new edition reports 5 ft. MLW, but since this channel seems to be filling in, caution is in order, and you may find even less water.  In any case the "deep water is very narrow!  I no longer recommend the course east from Gully Cay, south of Little Carter's Cay to the Fish Cays.

The attempt to develop an exclusive private club and resort, Spanish Cay ended up in receivership. A new marina was built on the southwest shore. 

There is a newly dredged and well marked channel (although very narrow) into White Sound, Green Turtle Cay which will carry six feet at MLW.  The channel is so narrow, that boats still go aground because they fail to stay close to the stakes, the channel is only about thirty feet wide! The first three and the last three spiles are marked with flashing red lights, although I do not recommend using this channel at night! I don’t yet know if these markers survived Hurricane Floyd. Both Bluff House and The Green Turtle Club remain popular destinations and their restaurants are excellent.  The Bluff House has built a new "Gas and Go" dock on the Sea of Abaco, intending to create an easy fuel stop for fuel thirsty power boats, who are in a hurry.  

On the south side of Green Turtle Cay, what was once a shallow sand bar, is now a fully developed beach, complete with casuarina trees.  The passage between Green Turtle Cay and Pelican Cay is no longer recommended for your big boat.  It is narrow, shallow and serves no useful purpose except for shallow draft fishing and diving boats wanting quick access to the reefs. You really need to see the new chart on this one! Pelican Cay is now privately owned and the owners request that you respect their privacy.

Neither of the passages inside Whale Cay are currently recommended!  Plan to go outside Whale Cay, but don't attempt this in a rage.  This is one of those things which HAS NOT CHANGED!

One of the most significant changes in Abaco has occurred in the channel between Guana Cay and Whale Cay, as a result of the dredging done for the cruise ship Majestic.  This cruise ship no longer stops in Abaco, but in order to accommodate the ship, a deep draft channel and a huge mooring basin were dredged. For all practical purposes the dredged, marked channel corresponds with the natural channel shown on page 153.  Once you're inside the channel, stay between the prominent spoil bank and the shore of Great Guana Cay. Significant shoaling has occurred in the lee of the spoil bank.

The new charts show the course from Whale Cay Passage to Treasure Cay closer to Don't Rock than our old charts showed. Our new edition deletes the direct passage from Great Guana Cay to Treasure Cay, because of extensive shoaling.  The entrance into Treasure Cay has been recently dredged to a controlling depth of 6 ft. MLW. If you have one of our 1995 overall charts of note that the GPS way points for the approach to Treasure Cay are duplicated (the inner one is correct), the outer one should be:

bullet

26° 39.585’N

bullet

77° 16.188’W

New owners have revitalized the old Guana Harbour Club and now operate the facility as the Guana Beach Resort.  They have changed more than the name, almost all for the better. One thing hasn't change--the Guana Grabber. Nipper’s is a new beach front bar and grill on Guana.

Man-O-War is still a great place for boat maintenance, or parts; but the restaurants described in the second edition have all changed. Hope Town remains much the same, but Elbow Cay was cut practically in two, by Hurricane Floyd. Extreme caution is in order in Lubbers Quarters Channel until we know how much of the sand from Elbow Cay ended up in Lubbers Quarters Channel.

In Marsh Harbour, the charter fleets have all changed.  All of the marinas in Marsh Harbour were hurt badly by Hurricane Floyd, but services are being restored.  On page 126, Wilensky gave Wally Smith a well deserved, glowing recommendation, but the reader should note that Wally now runs "Wally's" just down the street.  The restaurant at the Conch Inn still has the great view.  Across the harbor, Abaco For Sail is now Marsh Harbour Marina.

Boat Harbour Marina was developed, much as it was described on pages 124 and 125; but has successfully grown far beyond those original plans. The complex is a complete resort with a dive shop, mini-market, liquor store, swimming pools, restaurants, and a beach.  There is a lounge in the basement of the hotel, which often has a live band. 

South of Marsh Harbor, little change has occurred.  A landowner informs us that the Pelican Cays Land and Sea Park, described on page 102, does not include any of the northernmost of the Pelican Cays (the one with the ruins). 

Middle Channel depicted on page 100 and described on page 101 and 102 will now carry only 5 to 6 ft. MLW, so for most boats, I recommend it only on a rising tide.  Instead, use the deep water route, as described. No markers remain, but our courses and compass bearings still work just fine.  North Bar Channel remains unchanged and the instructions on page 101 still apply.

The sand bars west of Lynyard Cay have shifted significantly (as they may do with any storm), since the old charts were drawn. If you are headed south to Little Harbour, you should have no trouble, if you stay on our 183°T course until you approach the last rocky outcropping on the shore of Great Abaco.  This point is depicted on our chart on page 98.  It lies about 3/8 NM north of Bridges Cay, about equidistant between the two "15's" depicting 15 ft. soundings.  At this point, I have moved the new course line east approximately 1/4 NM.  Here's how I do it:  Identify the prominent stand of casuarinas on the shore of Great Abaco, north of the point just described.  Also identify the southern tip of Lynyard Cay.  A line drawn through these two landmarks is 149°T/329°T.  When you cross this line (southbound) take up a 149°T course until the prominent beach at Little Harbour (just east of the entrance) bears 187°T.  This beach is located on our chart (page 98), where you see the words "palm trees", but the white sand of the beach will be visible long before the palm trees.  It will also be visible long before the entrance to the harbor.  As you leave Bridges Cay, the harbor entrance, or at least Tom Curry Point should become apparent, and you can come off the heading to the beach and proceed as described on page 97.

The harbor entrance is much as it was described on page 97, except that I found the controlling depth to be 4 ft. MLW. The most shallow spot is just north of the marked channel, so once you get to the channel, you've got it made.  Well almost, the short crescent shaped channel is very narrow and makes a turn to the south east.  You'll cross very light green water north of the channel, and many skippers are tempted to bear off west into darker water.  Don't do it!  The very light green almost white water is thin, but it is the deepest you will  get!  If you're having trouble sorting out the markers, call "Pete's Pub" on the VHF and ask for help. 

Little Harbour remains much as it was described, except that Pete's Pub burned a few years ago and they have built a new open air pub on the beach. I’ve had unconfirmed reports that the new Pete’s pub was damaged severely by Hurricane Floyd.  Cruising sailors are specifically invited to e-mail me with any on sight reports. The Johnston's have built a new studio and showroom for their artwork, which is really worth a visit.  The harbor is now a marine sanctuary where turtles, especially, abound.  I saw more turtles here than anywhere in Abaco.  They alone make the trip worthwhile.  Rent a mooring from Pete's Pub, there really isn't enough swinging room to hang on your own hook.  The lighthouse is out of service.

South of Little Harbour everything is much as Wilensky described it 20 years ago, except that I found Cherokee more beautiful than the text could possibly describe. Please, if you don’t do anything else, look at the beautiful water colors at Cherokee elsewhere in this web site.  For most boats, I recommend the anchorage under the lee of Cherokee Point, shown on the chart on page 93.  At  Cherokee, you can reprovision at the well stocked grocery stores or even send a FAX back home! How about that for progress!

Now take out a pencil (recommended over ink) and a yellow highlighter.  I'll help you mark up some pertinent changes in pencil and ask you to highlight in yellow some known trouble spots on the following pages.   

bullet

Page 27.  The shoal northwest of Sandy Point extends out for an indefinite distance.  Do not attempt to circle north of it.  Lat/Long lines should be
26°00'N 77°25'W.

bullet

Page 29.  A bridge between Arawak Cay and Silver Cay now obstructs this passage.  The airport has been moved about six miles west. There is a new bridge from Nassau to Paradise Island, about 200 yards west of the old one.  The vertical clearance is the same as the old bridge. There is a new upscale marina/hotel/resort complex, Atlantis.

bullet

Page 33.  The "small boat channel" has been dredged to six feet, however a 5' MLW shoal outside the channel is still the controlling depth.

bullet

Page 37.  The spiles marking the channel were missing for many years, but have been replaced, very much as shown on our original chart.  The numbers have been changed, but this should cause you no problem.

bullet

Page 96.  The light house is out of service.  The entrance channel has a little more water than what our chart shows.  I found 4' MLW.

bullet

Page 98.  Move the 003°T/183°T course east about 1/4 NM as described in the text above.  Extensive movement of these sand bars west of Lynyard Cay has occurred.  Highlight in yellow. The longitude line should be 77°00'W.

bullet

Page 100.  Middle Channel will now carry only 5 ft. MLW.

bullet

Page 105.  The longitude line should be 77°03'W.

bullet

Page 107.  The longitude line should be 77°00'30"W

bullet

Page 109.  Lubbers Quarters Channel will now carry 4'MLW. Delete the course shown through Tilloo Cut. However was prepared prior to Hurricane Floyd, which hit at press time, we know that Elbow Cay was cut virtually in half and we have had no reports as to how this may have affected Lubbers Quarter Channel, extreme caution is in order. Seek and obtain local knowledge.

bullet

Page 111.  The anchorage shown near the "silver colored 40' antenna" is the approximate location of the new Boat Harbour Marina.  Approximately 1/4 NM SE of Boat Harbour Marina, a red spile, which they call their outer marker marks a shoal.  Stay  50 feet south of this marker.  The longitude line should be 77°03'W.

bullet

Page 113.  The "light" has been replaced with a floating orange ball. Locate The Sea Spray Resort and Marina at the south end of White Sound, a newly dredged approach channel connects their facility to the main channel leading into White Sound. The dredge boats were still working when I was there, so I can't give you soundings.  

bullet

Move the latitude line north one inch and label it 26°31'N. Move the longitude line west 3 1/4 inch and label it 76°59'W.

bullet

Page 115.  See Page 113 and 117. Shoaling has occurred in the vicinity of Porgee Rock and the direct passage from White Sound to Marsh Harbour is no longer recommended.  A 4'MLW shoal has developed along the 303°T course line about 1/4 NM from Eagle Rock.  The following course works well for me:  From a point east of the Parrot Cays, proceed toward Eagle Rock on a course of 102°T until you can take up the 145°T range into the harbor as shown on page 117.  This should keep you in 5' MLW over a sandy bottom.  Eagle Rock now has a prominent yellow house on it. 

bullet

Page 117.  Eagle Rock now has a prominent yellow house. Plot the 4' shoal, described above.  It extends over the 123°T/303°T course line.  Plot the new course described for page 115 on page 117.  The "old quarries" should be moved SW along the shore line about .2 NM.  The "range, two white poles" is actually one telephone pole in back, painted white to an approximate height of seven feet and a white PVC pole in front, lower.  The shoal, south of Lighthouse Marina (look where the arrow goes!) still causes trouble for a lot of skippers.  It is plotted about right, or may have grown a little, but either way give it a wide berth.  Highlight it in YELLOW.

bullet

Page 122.  The annual change in variation is incorrect, disregard.  As with the other charts in this guide the variation for 2000 should be approximately 7°W.  Change the 303°T course leaving Eagle Rock, as previously discussed.  I would omit the South Man-O-War channel as it is far inferior to North Man-O-War Channel.  Omit the direct course from Great Guana Cay to Treasure Cay.  There is a new cruise ship basin at the north end of Great Guana Cay, it was previously described in the text.  The following GPS coordinates can be plotted on your chart and will take you between the spoil bank and Great Guana then out  to the ocean: (26°41.419'N: 77°10.227'W), (26°41.895N:77°11.885'W), and (26°42.320'N:77°12.198'W).  Omit both courses inside Whale Cay!  The new course between Treasure Cay to Whale Cay passage should be 056°T/236°T, taking you closer (within about 3/4  NM) to Don't Rock. Delete the 321°T/141°T course to Green Turtle Cay, substitute a course of 319°T/139°T off the same point at Treasure Cay.  This change moves the course west to clear a shoal, building southwest of Green Turtle Cay.  

bullet

Elsewhere I have stated that "Big Channel" between Green Turtle Cay and Pelican Cay is only of limited usefulness.  Either delete it or mark it for caution in yellow.

bullet

Page 123.  Delete the 087°T course leaving Boat Harbour Marina on the south side of Marsh Harbour.  Plot a red spile at 26°32.466'N: 77°02.588'W.  It marks the 4' shoal shown on this page.  Go south of the red spile.  Mark this change in yellow.  Change the 303°T/123°T course as previously described, once north of the platform on the northernmost of the Parrot Cays 308°T is just about right to Point Set Rock.

bullet

Abeam of the northernmost "bulge" from Man-O-War's shoreline, about 1/2 to 3/4 NM out there is an ill defined sand bar which has five to six feet MLW.  It seems to move a lot but caution is in order when making the passage between Man-O-War and Scotland Cay.

bullet

The latitude line should be 26°34'N.

bullet

Page 125.  Boat Harbour Marina is larger than originally planned.  Their outer marker is a red spile, which marks a 4' MLW shoal about 1/4 NM SE of the harbor entrance and is just off this chart, but you should pass south of it.  Therefore delete the 087°T/267°T course shown here and refer to the chart on page 123, which shows the approximate location of the shoal.

bullet

Page 139.  Note the "white coral" just north of the anchorage, north of Delia's Cay.  Highlight it in yellow.  It is shown in just about the right location, but a lot of people overlook it on the charts and hit it anyway!  Insert the words "poor holding" near the anchor depicting the anchorage in the main harbor SE of the Guana Beach Resort.

bullet

Page 141.  See page 122 and plot the changes regarding the dredging for the cruise ship on this chart as well.

bullet

Page 145.  The latitude line should be 26°38'N.  Controlling depth of the Leisure Lee channel is 6.4' MLW

bullet

Page 147.  Treasure Cay has a newly dredged, staked channel. The approach to that new channel is now marked by two signs. The outer sign is located at 26°39.585'N:77°16.188'W and is marked with a white light.  The inner sign is located at 26° 39.833'N:77°17.237'W and is marked with a red light. The course between the two sign is 104°T/284°T.  From the outer sign, the course to Whale Cay Passage is 056°T/236°T.  Again, delete the course shown inside Whale Cay.  Change the 321°T course for Green Turtle Cay to 319°T, as previously explained.

bullet

Lat/Long lines should be 26°41'N and 76°16'W.

bullet

Page 149.  The channel is farther south, now and the area marked sand (shallow) IS REAL SHALLOW!  Highlight it in yellow! Many skippers misjudge this spot.

bullet

Page 153.  Same changes previously described.

bullet

Page 155.  There is a boot shaped peninsula of sand which is dry even at high tide, filling most of the area which we have marked as 1-2 ft. MLW.  The new 319°T course should keep you west of the shoal which is building SW of Green Turtle Cay.

bullet

Page 157.  Again substitute a 319°T course for the 321°T, moving the course line westward .2 NM.  Highlight in yellow the reef near the entrance to Black Sound.  There is no room between the entrance channel and the reef south of it, don't attempt to cut through there!  Many boats try, and go hard aground!  The entrance channel into White sound is approximately where we show it but it has been dredged to 6' MLW, although very narrow.  It is marked by seven white spiles, three before the turn, with red flashers, and three after the turn again with red flashers. The fourth white spile is right at the turn and is unlit.  The "tower with strobe" has been replaced with a simple white sign for the Green Turtle Club.

bullet

The latitude lines should be 26°46'N and 26°47'N.

bullet

Page 159.  The latitude line should be 26°46'N.

bullet

Page 165.  See channels changes noted on page 157.  Neither of the towers, which previously marked the two ends of the channel exist today.  The latitude line should be 26°47'N.

bullet

Page 167.  The radio mast on Allans-Pensacola Cay is missing.

bullet

Page 169.  The western end of the shoal now extends about 1.5 NM SW from the shore of Manjack, and is approximately located at 26°49.1'N: 77°24.4'W.  The channel through the sand bar is probably good for 6'MLW now and is approximately .8 NM from the shore (26°49.448'N:77°23.727'W to 26°49.669'N:77°24.187'W).

bullet

Change the latitude line too 26°49'N.

bullet

Page 173.  Change the course line to 123°T/303°T because the sand bar is extending westward.  Change the latitude line to 26°54' N. 

bullet

Page 181.  Delete the radio mast on Allans Pensacola Cay. delete the course to Carters Cay which passes north of Pawpaw Cays.

bullet

Page 187.  The anchorage at Moraine Cay now has less than 6' MLW.

bullet

Page 189.  See 187.

bullet

Page 191.  There is a submerged rock with only 2' MLW 1/3 NM west of our course around the west end of Hawksbill Cays. Plot the rock at 26°56.3'N:77°48.8'W, courtesy Blythe Spirit.

bullet

Page 196.  Omit course from Carters Cay to Fish Cays, north of Grouper Rocks.

bullet

Page 199.  Omit above course. Regarding the 032°T course toward Gully Cay, delete the 6-7 and substitute 5' MLW, controlling depth.  Highlight in yellow.

bullet

Page 205.  Delete the range markers for the passage east of Tom Browns Cay.  Use Elephant rock instead.

bullet

Page 207.  The anchorage under Boar Hog Point, is good for 5' MLW.  The anchorage inside the reef will now only carry 4' MLW.

bullet

Page 211.  Change the longitude to 78°20'W.   

bullet

Page 215.  There are no longer any range markers for Seal Cay Channel.  190°T to Elephant Rock works just fine.  The stakes leading into Walkers Cay are no longer numbered.  The following GPS coordinates define the channel:

27°14.118'N: 78°24.119'W

27°14.383'N: 78°24.152'W

27°14.597'N: 78°24.149'W

27°14.697'N: 78°24.053'W

27°14.894'N: 78°23.787'W

27°14.992'N: 78°23.777'W

27°15.408'N: 78°23.713'W

If you want to plot these GPS coordinate on our charts, you need to adjust the 78°24'W longitude line west 3/16" and the 27°15'N latitude line to the south 1/16".  

 

 

 
This is a Pelican Power web site.

Copyright © 1998-2001 Pelican Power. All rights reserved.
Revised: November 01, 2005.

Site best viewed with