Cruising Guide to the Abacos and the Northern Bahamas

    
 

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Right now, it's a little difficult to remember about stress and all that stuff.  Today, I awakened with the sun shining through the porthole of my sailboat as I heard the sound of roosters crowing on the island of Green Turtle Cay.  I had a lovely sail twenty miles away to the town of Marsh Harbour. For dinner I grilled lobster, which I had taken fresh from the sea.  For many this might seem like a day from a vacation in paradise, but for me, it is a lifestyle I've adopted.  I have traded worries about the politics and business of medicine for concern about weather and tides.

On my last cruise, I met an anesthesiologist and his wife, who were on "vacation" in the Berry Islands.  They seemed so excited to hear about my cruising that I thought others might enjoy the story as well.

I first learned of the Abacos in the northern Bahamas when I read "Out Island Doctor", by Evans Cottman.  He never went to medical school, so he wasn't a "real" doctor in that sense. Nevertheless, he built a practice here in Abaco, where his closeness to his patients makes our "high tech" medicine of today seem less than real by comparison.  Cottman was a high school science teacher by profession, who came here for a summer vacation, or two.  Local community leaders appealed to this man of science to return as "Dr. Cottman".  In those days, anyone with a reasonable science background, and who could pass the licensing test, could obtain a limited license to practice medicine.  The need in these out islands was great and this policy, which was supported by the medical community, filled a very real need, much like the concept of physician extenders today.  Dr. Cottman then retired from his teaching career, moved to Abaco, and sailed the out islands in his sailboat the "Green Cross", attending his patients in villages like Hard Bargain, Green Turtle Cay and Marsh Harbour.

His fascinating stories brought me here, first to vacation on a charter boat, then later on my own sailboat.  By that time, I was "hooked", my boat "Kira" spent more time in Abaco than she did in Florida.  My friends in Green Turtle Cay were encouraging me to move there to practice when they introduced me to Dr. Mendelson, who was retiring (for the second time). Sometime after he described the aspiration syndrome, he retired from his New York practice and moved to Green Turtle Cay, Abaco. He was an Ob-Gyn, but did general practice here (you have to!) for twenty some odd years.  For many years, he landed his own airplane on his backyard (1000' grass) airstrip.  I'm told that he had a near miss one day when he decided to close his private airstrip, and started using the "big" airport at nearby Treasure Cay.  When I met him, he and his wife were living in the renovated hanger and planning to move to West Palm Beach for health reasons.

It was a tempting opportunity, but as the only doctor on a small island, I couldn't figure out how I could get any time off to enjoy this paradise!  As it was, I rarely came on "holiday", without having to make at least one "house call" (or boat call).  I was always a bit apprehensive, since I didn't have a Bahamian license, but neither could I refuse to help someone in need.  I was occasionally given gifts of appreciation such as lobster tails, conch, or fish.

I continued my gynecology practice in Florida, but stopped obstetrics.  I commuted to Abaco at every available opportunity in our private airplane.  My Cessna Cardinal had become my family car and "Kira", my 42' sailboat, had become my second home, usually in Abaco.  Last year alone, I accumulated over three hundred hours of flight time.  In fourteen years of private flying, I was late for work only once due to weather, and never due to mechanical problems.  Problems at the hospital and with automobile traffic should have such a record!

Until very recently, a visiting yacht could only stay in the Bahamas for six months before it was considered to be "imported" at which time 35% duty became payable (ouch!).  In those days, the routine was to go back to Florida, stock up with groceries and other essentials every six months.  A six month supply of groceries is quite an impressive sight in the check-out line!  More recently, the rules have been changed so that cruising yachts can stay up to one year on a cruising permit.

I began to enjoy my time in Abaco more and more, spending less time in Florida.  Ultimately, I chose to close my practice in Florida and embarked on this cruising lifestyle.  I call it "retirement", but it's not really because I fly back to the "States" to work locum tenens one or two weeks every month or so.  I'm licensed in all of the southeastern states from Arkansas and Louisiana eastward to the Carolinas plus New York. This seems to provide me with ample opportunity to work, yet keeps the travel within reason.

A typical assignment begins with a day of travel.  First, the water taxi picks me up from my boat at 8 a.m..  It's a thirty minute ride on the water taxi to meet a regular (car) taxi.  From there I have a short ride to the airport, where I pre-flight the airplane.  Out here you have to be your own meteorologist, so when I check the weather I look at the sky and note the wind direction. 

I usually clear U.S. customs at Ft. Pierce, Fl.  The people are friendly and the fuel is favorably priced.  Palm Beach International makes a good alternate.  From south Florida, I will usually fly non-stop to the Carolinas or plan a fuel stop in Montgomery, Alabama if I am headed further west.

Once on an assignment--it's pretty much main stream American.  I get a chance to stay in touch with Ob-Gyn and a chance to shop at regular stores.  Once the assignment ends, I'm back to the islands without most of the worries which accompany private practice.

Thus far my cruising has taken me to the Florida Keys, Bimini, Freeport, Grand Bahama, The Berry Islands, and of course, Abaco, down the so-called thorny path through the Exumas, Long Island, San Salvador, Acklins, The Turks and Caicos, The Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, The Virgin Islands, and The Leeward Islands I contracted with Wescott Cove Publishing Company to re-write the cruising guide for Abaco.  This writing endeavor tends to give a sense of purpose to what otherwise becomes an endless stream of days filled with fishing, diving, and sailing.  It helps me avoid the empty feeling which some busy practitioners have experienced when they slow down.

For my next cruise, I’d like to return the French West Indies and finish my guide for the Leeward Islands. The trek up and down the Thorny Path seems like fertile ground for a new cruising guide as well. Whatever the destination, it seems that working  locum tenens in the United States and cruising in the islands on my sailboat has become a viable opportunity for this "Out Island Doctor," and might be for others as well.  

 

 

 
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Revised: November 01, 2005.

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